Markets in Poitou-Charentes

The market culture of Poitou-Charentes

Markets are part of French life just like baguettes are part of lunch. In the Poitou-Charentes, there are not only places to do your shopping, but also social meeting points. On Saturday morning, the village square fills with the pleasant buzz of market visitors, the sound of baskets being put down and the shouting of market people selling their goods.

The region is made up of four departments – Charente, Charente-Maritime, Deux-Sèvres and Vienne – each with its own character. The coastal areas sell fish, salt and wine; inland the focus lies more on goat cheese, honey and fruit.

According to the regional tourist office of Nouvelle Aquitaine, hundreds of markets take place in Poitou-Charentes every week. From the busy halls in La Rochelle to small farmers' markets in villages with no more than a hundred inhabitants.

The history of the markets

The origins of the French markets date back to the Middle Ages. In the 12th and 13th centuries, markets were organized at city gates and churches, where farmers could sell their harvest and travellers could do their shopping. Towns such as Parthenay and Saintes were granted market rights early on, enabling them to grow into trading centres.

To this day, the set-up has remained almost the same. The stone halls of Poitiers and Angoulême date back to the 19th century, and many market days still follow centuries-old schedules. Where wine, salt and textiles were once traded, you will now find artisanal products, cheeses and other regional dishes.

You can read more about the French market culture on the website of France.fr, the National Tourist Board.

Spring – the time of renewal

The first strawberries, young vegetables and fresh herbs fill the stalls. The atmosphere is expectant, the air fresh. At the Cognac market, a farmer sells jars of honey with the scent of lavender. In Poitiers, the florist puts his tulips in rows on the square.

Summer – vibrant life

In summer, the region is buzzing. There are evening markets, music and tastings everywhere. The market of La Rochelle is a sea of color – oysters, flowers, spices. Families find this to be the perfect family outing during their holiday in France.

Autumn – flavours of the harvest

The markets are warm: orange pumpkins, chestnuts, nuts and figs. At the Saintes market  , a winegrower lets visitors taste his new harvest. The smell of roasted nuts fills the air.

Winter – cosiness and tradition

Even when the cold sets in, the market remains buoyant. Covered halls such as Les Halles d'Angoulême offer warmth and scent. Here you can buy cheeses, cold cuts and pastries, while the Christmas lights twinkle above the stalls.

Culinary routes and flavours for gourmets

The Poitou-Charentes is a paradise for lovers of local dishes and pure flavours. The markets mark the beginning of a culinary journey of discovery that takes you past farms, vineyards and villages where the pride of the region is made.

Route 1 – Around Domaine les Forges
Start the morning in Vasles, where a small farmers' market takes place on Fridays. Taste goat's cheese, buy fresh fruit and then drive to Parthenay to enjoy the Saturday market where local produce is sold. Have lunch on a terrace overlooking the old city walls.

Route 2 – From Aveneau-Vieille Vigne
Visit the Saturday market of Poitiers, taste Chabichou du Poitou and buy a bottle of Pineau to take home. Afterwards, take a short drive to Lake Saint-Cyr for a picnic.

Route 3 – Bourg Est-Vigelière and the Charente
Start in Cognac, stroll among the stalls full of wine, nuts and honey and end in Angoulême. Here you will find truffle products, cheeses and artisanal jams.

For culinary travellers, there are also special marchés gourmands, markets with food stands and live music. They combine local gastronomy with conviviality and attract foodies from all over France.

Portraits of market traders

Each market has its own faces.

Jean-Luc, a goat farmer from Vasles, sells cheeses that he matures himself in a stone cellar. ‘The smell of my goat shed is part of the flavour of my cheese,’ he laughs.

Henri and Élise, beekeepers from the Charente, proudly welcome you to taste their honey. "The bees get nectar from sunflowers, which is what makes the honey light and fruity."

Madame Bourdet has been  sellingflowers in Niort for more than forty years. She arranges bouquets while talking to regular customers about the weather and the harvest.

It is these encounters that give the markets in Poitou-Charentes their character.

Market etiquette – how to do it like a local

• Always greet in a friendly way: "Bonjour madame" or "Bonjour monsieur." This is appreciated by the French.
• Tasting is allowed, but first ask: "Je peux goûter ?"
• Preferably pay in cash, with some change. At many stalls, this is the only option to pay.
• Bring a basket or cloth bag. A plastic bag is seen as environmental pollution.
• Feel free to ask about the origin of products. The market vendors are happy to explain.
• Take your time – the market is an experience, not a chore. People expect you to stop and have a chat.

A smile and a brief conversation often result in extra attention or an extra piece of cheese to sample.

Combination tips: markets & sights

A visit to the market can easily be combined with other excursions in the region.

• La Rochelle – After visiting the market, walk to the old port or visit the famous Aquarium.
• Cognac – After visiting the market, take a tour of Rémy Martin or Hennessy.
• Niort – After visiting the city, canoe through the Marais Poitevin.
• Poitiers – Combine the market with a visit to Puy du Fou, Aquascope or Futuroscope. Make sure you have a large part of the day available for this entertainment park.
• Parthenay – After visiting the market, stroll through the medieval city gates or enjoy lunch along the river.